Life in Fes

As I write this in a waterlogged cyber cafe, the wind is howling outside and the rain is teeming into my sodden basement.....just kidding folks the scorching sidewalk forces us into the shade of our houses for the main part of the day. Unlike poor old England which has had about 10 years rain in 10 minutes it seems to me Fes has leapt into summer with a vengeance.

So what do we do in this scenario, well not much if you are me thats for sure unless you want to fry which is exactly what I did the other day convalescing on the terrace with a good book and turned a crispy black colour within hours. Apart from the pain it did make my teeth look whiter always a bonus!

So whats new in Fes well another big splurge in publicity heading our way after the Daily Mail and the Telegraph met us, that is Pizza Mike and myself, at Riad Fes the other week where we burbled on about our life here so that should be coming out soon. Also the rather big news that i picked up the other day is that the area around my fave spot at Mt Zalagh has been declassified from agricultural status to potential touristic developement status which is worrying and exciting at the same time.

I spend quite a bit of time with the small indiginous Berber community up there with their wattle and daub houses, cows in the living room, butter churn in the kitchen and outside a team of donkeys threshing the corn underhoof, whilst the kids chase the goats and chickens hither and thither, i love that phrase. So what will happen to these families when the big developers move in, I would really like to know as the region is set for such huge change i am sure most of them are totally unaware of the rapid progress. I almost would like to make it a personal crusade to raise awareness of the benefits or otherwise of this progress so that they can fully appreciate how this will impinge on their almost idyllic lifestyle.

They are not rich and probably do not own the house or the land it is on but i have rarely met a more hospitable,healthy, smiling, gracious people. On my several visits with various friends they are unfailingly impressed with the hospitality as we are greeted like long lost cousins, the cushions and tapis arranged under the shade of a massive olive tree or favoured spot. Sitting in perfect silence admiring the environs of the Medina beneath us very soon out comes the mint tea with a bowl of local olive oil and freshly baked bread to dunk it in and you can feel a perfect moment slyly creep up on you. With only a few words of Arabic to my repertoire the conversation does not exactly flow but its not needed they understand the need of Medina types to recharge their soul up in the hills with a cool off Atlantic breeze and perfect peace.

I have taken stressed out renovators and overworked estate agents up here and been able to chill them out instantly I call it my Zalagh Zen Experience. I would hate to think that progress would impinge on this experience but I guess it is inevitable so hope only that the prospective villas will not subjugate the Berbers too much to the vagaries of the 21 st Century as they work quite happily a few centuries behind us.

Thats got that off my crispy tanned chest so what else is new. Well Cafe Clock is threatening to open any week soon but realistically could be late August but it will be a welcome addition to the Fes culinary experience; might have to show Mike a classic Sunday Brunch theres nothing better than a good eggs benedict to start the morning, just need some english muffins and the Sunday papers!!

The Likely Lads

Hello Folks yes I am still alive and kicking and as I have just been sent this amusing snap from Mystere Mike thought I would post it here for a laugh. The lads on it are DJ Patt my old compadre from Vejer in Spain and Koko the jack of all trades in the Medina responsible for making half the furniture in the house. I am relaxing after a hard days relaxing as you can tell well you dont want to push things too hard at my age do you.

Fes is a wonderful place to be right now the summer is kicking in and although the surrounding countryside is quite parched and dry a short drive into the hills ensures peace and quiet and the fantastic hospitality of the Berbers. At the house a succession of friends are arriving from all parts of the globe including Steph and Carey who have been working in the Peace Corps in Burkina Faso for two years one of the poorest countries in Africa. They fell in love with Fes immediately and will probably move here, it has that effect on people and if you dont believe it come over yourself and see if the bug gets you.

Octagon Delight

Many thanks to Susannah Clarke for the image featured here which she took as one of a portfolio of photos for her forthcoming book. It will probably feature prominently on my upcoming website when I get round to it inshallah.

As we awoke today at the house Shawn an American friend came in bleary eyed from his dawn experience at the Merenids tombs Sacred Music gig to announce it was just a man with a horse and two musicians, in his typically dry and laconic tone, yea I got up at 4am for a freaking horse, adding I expected circus tricks at least. Oh well... the highlight conversation of the gig was one American turning to her companion as the sun rose over the tombs to point at the vast spread of the Medina in front and below them to announce Whats That! Would have to say that lady is spectacularly ill informed as to where she is and whats happening.

Halfway through the Music Festival and its only now that we are finding the hidden gems ie the free concerts at 11pm at Dar Tazi with wonderful call and response chanting and Dar Batha with an intense and invigorating Gnaoua demonstration last night that lifted the spirits skyward. The day is spent wandering the Medina soaking up the atmosphere and vibe of the Festival in keen anticipation of the afternoons activities. Sorry to have missed the inaugural appearance of a new Whirling Dervish extravaganza at Bab Makina the other night which by all accounts was top notch but i did manage to get my frantically bobbing head on national tv the other day whilst listening to some otherworldly Mauretainian chanting at Musee Batha...fame at last.

all relaxed.....for now

There is one happy house hunter sunning herself on the terrace after finally choosing her little house in the Medina and as she left her sister Nicki showed up and soon was tramping the derb in search of her own slice of the Medina, it never stops. The renovation side of things is coming to an end and my hospitality side is now kicking in for all my visiting friends and family.

As i have not written for a while I have been pondering the exact purpose of the blog and I realise its main purpose was to entertain and inform at the same time the progress and pitfalls in a renovation. To this end I feel it has achieved that aim over more than 90 pages so new readers should take the time to go through the blog archive to see the progression.

For old readers I will probably post from time to time but will probably set up a website incorporating the best visual images and will keep you informed of its progress. There is so much happening in the medina but not all of it relevant to this particular blog, I feel Sandys View from Fes site covers our general daily life and I may take a fresh tack on things once my wi fi is fixed at the house could take a while though!!

Hectic

Poor old blog suffering from a lack of attention but not because nothing is going on en contraire there has been too much to take in at times. From the frantic renovation and opening party of the Clock Cafe, the frantic renovations of Kleos ongoing project and the Sufi concerts at the Palais Mokri there has been a lot to take in this month.

At the Mernissi house work is slowly coming to fruition and as we speak a houseful of old friends have demolished a hearty breakfast and are now sunning themselves on the terrace or playing with the tortoises, putting off doing the less exciting task of opening bank accounts. Yes all the friends are potential Medina house owners of course. At present there are Andy and an expectant Shiffra and the mad Poles Rafe and Joanne who are seriously thinking of investing and Michael a lawyer who has taken on a huge restoration project down in the depths of the derb as we say.

Its been fun having people enjoy the house and entertaining them whilst down in the basement work goes merrily along with the build team taking their time to reconstruct walls; make new floors and today taking delivery of a ton of tiles to lay a new zellige floor. This should be the last major work in the house then we can concentrate on fine tuning things.

Yesterday Ben my trusty guardian got married so we all trooped along, he regaled us all with the story of his wedding night which was a detail too far for most people but he seemed pleased enough to share the full story with us. he will take a few days off to recover no doubt before moving back to the house with his new bride.

Very soon this month we have the invasion of the Norwich contingent starting with Mystere Mike and the wife and brood into their soon to be furnished Dar followed by more reprobates from my previous life should be fun we shall see.

As one friend leaves more turn up which is great to get them to test drive as it were the various rooms. Its feeling real homely now and all around the house have been adding little touches but still need some real essentials such as a toilet door for the upstairs room, oh no I dont as its just arrived, albeit seven days late.

Heres a few pics of the interior for those of you fed up with terrace shots and for Michael a shot of our lunchtime companions the metalworkers.

Next project is the infamous basement which has been used as a dumping ground and general store for months but now hopefully we can transform it into a chill out space as it will be nice and cool in the summer heat.

Sandy provided another feast of entertainment in a Moroccan Music Melange type of way and a very healthy turn out of expats greatly appreciated the superlative vocal stylings of the various masters. It was shame we couldnt get to socialise more after the event but as it finished quite late a conga trail of us wended our way back up the medina ensuring all the girls got safely home. Cafe Mike provided his famous lemon tart nibbles alongside other treats and was most offended when Barbara enquired if he had anything savoury or salty as she had missed her dinner!

More and more characters are passing through the medina portals including NZ based set designers from Lord of the Rings to French chateau owners and music teachers from Eton and it all makes for a heady mix. In fact its difficult to spot a boring person as Fes tends to attract the unusual and adventurous not to mention the downright mad, no names mentioned.

A fine old time

The Purple Circle members have been revealed to the public at large consisting of like minded souls intent on promoting ethical restoration, organising cultural events, socialising and supporting each others endeavours in the Medina etc. There was talk of a breakaway movement from one of the newer members to form a Deep Purple Circle whose role would either be to play Smoke on the Water on a constant loop or to be an underground wing. One of their weapons in this endeavour is the fiendishly clever and devious lettuce chewing character above who for the purpose of subterfuge is cleverly disguised as a common or garden tortoise.

We had a social gathering of the PC clan at the house on Sunday as I had decided to make a traditional Sunday lunch with Yorkshire Puddings. All the usual suspects were there and more besides and there was a lovely write up and more with a great terrace photo on the View From Fez. As the house is clearly now habitable with a functioning galley kitchen who better to try out my rusting culinary skills on than Fes nearest and dearest eccentrics.

Michael is over from Norwich for his usual mad three day sprint to get all his furniture made or ordered even though his house is not ready. Took him round to see my very valued contacts who have done me proud in the workmanship stakes and he was able to easily see, price up and order to his hearts desire. Picture shows him at the metalmans, we only dropped by for a minute but they insisted we stay for tea, lunch and even repaired my shoes into the bargain, as always exemplary Fassi hospitality.

For all those interested will post some pics of the house interior now that its all coming together and any mates interested in coming over to stay should contact me at djlouismac@hotmail.com

Its all happening Folks

The Medina is buzzing and not just with the Semana Santa or Easter crowd but also with the core of ex pats here and its growing almost daily. As i said before have just discovered another new neighbour in the delectable Barbara who has stopped the renovation at her spacious marbled Riad to write a thriller novel, so she must meet Sandy of course for a few tips.

Introduced her to Pizza or is it Lemon Tart Mike and Fraulein Kleo and of course everyone hit it off like a Dar on fire as we are all basically as eccentric as one can get but all involved in beautiful projects of course so we cant be all mad. At the Mernissi House although waiting a week for the notorious plumber to show to fit in kitchen taps I cant let him get to me as we concentrate on making a house a home with handmade, not by me I add, furniture and pots and plants. Cheers Michael at Dar Mystere for the before and after shots on his blog of my terrace I had forgotten what a tip it was, my how time flies, as that was less than a year ago.

Ben and I were potting plants minding our own business the other day when we heard a commotion outside as a tour guide and his 40 young French ladies were admiring the front door and ladies lookout window which is a rarity here. I bounced down 5 flights to invite them all in and Ben gave them a quick shoof shoof around the house to the amazement of Fatima the Da Capo lady and the two cats and the very frightened tortoises. It was quite an experience and while on the top terrace several enquired as to my marital status so I held up my ringless hand prompting fits of giggles and two offers of marriage, not bad for a Saturday morning.

Fun continued later the same day with dinner with Kleo and Barbra at chez Barbra where we all cooked up a veggie storm and cheered up Kleo who had had a mare of a day having her water cut off and her electrician literally going mad. Not angry you understand but bonkers which is not good if someone is wiring your house, did I mention that the lighting doesnt quite work, well that goes without saying really! Anyway explained to her that she is approaching the Hump Phase as I call it when problems seem insurmountable but then they even out and you realise you are on the home straight and flying towards the post, over the Hump!

Dining on Barbras hand made black marble table in the bandstand area of her 450sq m patio with the two lovely ladies made me realise that I wasnt in Kansas anymore Toto, or for Kansas read Norwich terrace house and suddenly all felt right with the world. I have got over my personal Hump and am now fine tuning the house and it is looking great in fact just as I pictured it in my head all those months ago proving it CAN be done you just need to be STRONG in all senses of the word.

Will post some more piccies later when I have finished my pottering, made the beds and await a batch of friends arriving any moment now inshallah to test out the Mernissi hospitality.

Getting Neighbourly

Big Big meeting last night in Batha at the sumptiously appointed Government Hall or whatever this palatial place was. It had been necessary for some time to get the Government and Tourism offices to acknowledge the frustration and anger of the European contingent and also to remedy said frustrations. All problems stem from archaic bureaucracy or delaying tactics with roxas or interference in peoples design choices for their business.

The meeting was pulled together by Maison Bleu and The Amster, David to his friends and a lively discussion ensued with several highlights incuding the Minister of Tourism being pedantic about criteria for Maison dhotes, for which he was interupted several times by a Government minister. Barbara, a Riad owner from round my way also had her say not mincing words when saying how do we stop getting ripped off by malams. Strong words indeed, but someone had to say it as most of the Europeans around the hall could equate to her individual experience in some way during their own renovations.

It was a good chance to see and meet the other mad people of the Medina who have chosen the Fes lifestyle in their individual projects and hopefully this meeting will result in more discussion groups being set up to address concerns as and when they arise. Hopefully with a sympathetic Government influence the Tourism and Planning Departments can work with us and not against us in the near future. After all we have all renovated here because we love the houses and Medina lifestyle and are not quick buck Bulgarian off sale merchants so a bit of respect for this would not go amiss. I think we should be in harmony working towards the common goal of having a legal business, paying our appropriate taxes etc to free some us up from the stress of working under the table so to speak until reforms are in place.

On a more chilled note it was good to see lots of the Medina stalwarts including a few new ones, got introduced to Barbera the rip off accuser from Question Time with the Walid and discovered yet again someone who was a very close neighbour who I had never seen before. This keeps happening so now I find myself flanked by Kleo on Kabira side and Barbera on the Sighera side in the middle of a German sandwich, not that i am complaining. They are great examples along with Josephine of the gung ho,go it alone, charming but feisty if necessary, strong independent women who are attracted to the Medina.

I take my hat off to them also anyone of us brave enough to dip their toes in The Renovation Game and come out the other end with a brain intact and anything but coins in their wallet or purse. Its all worth it in the end folks as I near the end of this first phase of finishing I can look back on all my hassles and realise it was all part of my education. Question is did I get an A plus for effort or a B minus must try harder next year, maybe I will never know until The Amster comes round!!

Yellow and Green

The painting and sloshing and dripping finally came to an end today, after many complaints about masking off and not splattering. The last day they spent on a monster clean up of tiles and terrace and light fittings etc and well I couldnt believe it as the terrace became a vision of yellow and green. Ostensibly it should be Fassi Beige but its yellow to me and so we now have the national colours of Australia, Brazil and of course Norwich City my home town in Blighty.

Friends are staying in the salon bedroom and the intermediary room which at the moment has no doors, still waiting on that one as they are being made, so its a bit makeshift at present. Still putting one kitchen together but as the plumber has gone walkabout we have no taps in place although plumbing is good to go, so we have to go to the apartment kitchen for water, oh well at least we can cook and have a fridge. The plumber will turn up when you least expect him and I will come back one day to find the work done and while hes at it theres that leak in the bath thats bugging me!!

Its strange time at present as even though there is still lots to do in the house having friends there forces me to look to my catering and hospitality side to make sure they are reasonably happy in the circumstances explaining the lack of a sugar bowl or door to their toilet!!

Abdelkaddir stands proudly in front of his latest paint job and I have finally paid him off the last installment of the plaster,tadelakt and painting he has done. I dont know exactly what he has been paid but it is a LOT but his work is worth it in the long run after some of the shoddy work I have seen. I would recommend him but make sure you nail him for exactly what you want done and is material included and the exact sq m of what he is doing so you are au fait with what you are getting. Also see if cleaning up is in the price or what it will cost to clean up after his workers, factor all this in your quote and you wont go far wrong.

Old faces: New faces

Doors are on, bolts polished, kitchen tadelakted and just when i thought the mess had ended I decided to get the terrace painted while I was off for a few days. Well thats not logical is it as I should have had it done ages ago but as Abdelkaddir had promised a wicked job at fair price I went along with it.

Had to pop up to Chefchaoen for a few days mainly to pick up my old mate Simon from Norwich on his way down from the Jerez MotoGrand Prix looking to celebrate his birthday with a Moroccan Experience so I obliged. We had a few days in the pouring rain for the most part catching up with Archi and collecting twigs and kindling for a nightly fire in the funky apartment we had rented. No news on the paperwork for the Chefchaoen abode, how unusual, so after two days headed back down to Fes through glorious greenery and verdant countryside. Simon was already impressed but interested to see what he would make of Fes and in particular the Mernissi House.

As he is a fine finisher back home his eye for detail and colour schemes is second to none so I value his comments or critiques on the house. On entering he was already impressed as the layout of the house is unusual to say the least and once on the terrace his unerring eye was picking out detail and coordinating colours. Unfortunately the painters had rain stopping their play so the terrace was not finished and slightly paint splattered, how unusual, as they believe its a clean up crews job to tidy up after them whereas half a day masking up could have solved the problem. Its best to be on hand to ensure this happens and even though I left strict instructions on my departure no masking was done and the old methods prevailed, oh well just hoping this is the final clean!!

Next day couple of old friends arrived for a week and as main salon bedroom ready thats where they went and over the week will help me put the kitchen together and fine tune the house for liveability. Paul and Becky have only recently bought their house here after numerous trips and frustrations over the last year so good luck to them and their imminent baby, could this be the first expat Fes birth i dont know, we shall see.

All week bits and pieces started to come together Simon and I choosing light fittings for the stairwell while Koka the leather man produced gorgeous banquettes out of the leather hides I have had for a year. Also the central light fitting in the main salon was made and ready for pick up so slowly, slowly it all comes together. The main project left is the Berber Basement so when the terrace is done its down to the depths we go to finish this off again Simon adding invaluable advice and great ideas he really is on my wavelength which is great.

More friends arriving this week from Chefchaoen so its all go at the mo will post some piccies soon adios.

Up the Workers

Nice to see the Boys getting their hands and notably faces dirty as we progress on the renovation path. Nordeen who greets me each morning with Hello my brother, his only English, is on his last chore after repair zelliging throughout the house. This is the counter or is it bar top on the terrace and of course we are staying with our green and cream design complementing the table and terrace floor.

Mustpha the builder who solved one of my biggest annoying problems the huge chunks taken out of the steps in the stairwell, created a mosaic mix that perfectly blended in with the existing steps. He came in early Friday as the shops were shut because when he got his sanding machine going full tilt to polish the steps the place became enveloped in a Kalahari dust storm hence his dusty visage in the photo.

Nordeen the carpenter was responsible for the salon doors after the potent potash boys had stripped them. He lovingly made a colour stain to match all the existing wood in the house and applied it and then a linseed oil coating so the doors then looked good enough to eat, wood chips anyone. Then with our new solid brass bolts in place we hung the doors to give the whole room a special glow it seemed, because rooms are so naked without their nicely oiled doors, methinks.

Great three course meal at Pizza Mikes abode who will now have to change his name to Burger Mike or Lemon Tart Mike after a delicious meal in the exalted company of The Amster and Sandy Fassi Man with his newly acquired fez, looking quite the part I must say. The Purple Circle reared it s ugly head yet again and has gained some new members so I have heard so watch out Fes, this could get dangerous.

House Hunt

Had a runaround week this week folks as my friend Pippa, another Norwich Nomad arrived. She was determined to find a property for under 20000 euros within the Medina and was expecting to see drivel or rubble but in that strange way that househunting works here she found her ideal house within an hour at 19000 euros. Or so we thought...

I knew it was too good to be true and so it was as the agents tirelessly working on her behalf, Linda and Alan from My Moroccan Dream, came up against the usual obstacle, one family member who wanted to jack the price up to...30000 euros!! How do you say you must be having a laugh in Arabic cos thats what we all thought. Poor Pippa was so despondent but hey thats the way things go so she put in a counter offer but they still held out and so the game continues. She left for Essaouria with nothing sorted so yours truly will pick up the reins for her and carry on the game.

Its been all go in the Medina and around the house as well as we organise yet another clean up, you realise that the final clean up is always tantalisingly out of reach. Started to stockpile furniture now at quite an alarming rate it must be said but all necessary and even on a frugal budget your money can go a long way ie wicker chairs at 140 dh each. Also dont go out on a limb for beds, a decent mattress from Metro on top of the wooden banquettes is just fine for most people unless of course you are expecting royalty.So this is where the fun begins visualising furniture and fittings in place and then checking the wallet to see what you can stretch those dirhams to afford.

Pizza Mike is back in town and found a lively companion in our Pippa as they are both ex Maitre Ds of top restaurants. A few drinks were shared with other ex pats at the Batha hostelry spotting Joesphine and the last remnants of the Aussie contingent over for her sons wedding, also Sandy preparing mentally for his Sufi party. Mike was waxing lyrical about the Purple Circle and why he was not in it whatever it was so suggested he start his own, maybe the Brown Circle... anyway moving on.

Its time for a Chefchaoen trip, why, because its there, plus need to see what progress in the house there regarding paperwork because then I will have to seriously chase up money. Also ANOTHER Norwich Nomad is on his way and Im sure you will see him out and about soon enough, an old mucka of mine of some 35 years standing his name is Simon Butcher. We were involved in an infamous Nomad meetup in Perth in 1986 which took two years to organise getting Norwich friends to Oz from all over the globe for a couple of months of mayhem that Xmas.

I think he needs a break from Englands frenetic work pace so the Big C should be ideal, whats the betting I sell him a house....

The Da Capo Code

Dont talk to me about Da Capo I have had just about enough, for those who think I am talking about a Sicilian Dynasty ..think again. It is basically paint stripper used on all the cedar wood here but faced with stripping my main salon doors as they look a tad ratty in the cold light of day i decided on an alternative measure. With their fine gravure it would take the ladies over a week to strip them maybe more so I got in the Potash Boys. Now these guys use a caustic solution mixed with water that bites through the old paint and strips doors almost instantly albeit with tons of scrubbing and water.

Now the purists amongst us especially that Purple Circle crew would be up in arms about this procedure but to hell with it they came out fine. Then I will let the Ladies loose on them for a fine Da Capo treatment and then the carpenter will apply his secret mix of gum,alcohol and water to give the doors a heavenly body before we stroke them finally with linseed oil. But the discussions about all of this took up half a day as everyone had an opinion about everything ..how unusual in Morocco.

Elsewhere in the house the plumber suddenly arrived after a 9 day absence to put fittings in the apartment bathrooms, whilst Mouaniss was ordering marble for apartment steps and the beautiful handmade bolt for one of the salon doors a work of art in itself but at 900 dh was it cheap ...who knows, but it weighs a ton, slight exagerration.

As we progress slowly and surely the old wallet is taking a hammering so decided to meet up with the delightful Kleo for a drink or two in the sumptious environs of Riad Fes. Truly stunning and tasteful, yes Kleo that could be you but I meant the building, throughout this grand Riad perfect for a chilled session after Medina Madness and we compared notes on renovation. She has a stunning house that is just a bit behind schedule by about a year so I shouldnt grumble really, as everyone seems to assume I havent much left to do ...WRONG, I see loads and its all in the small nasty details. I guess the place will be furnished with a couple of deckchairs and a sand pit with an odd bean bag if i dont curtail the spending but the trouble is these houses demand a certain standard so in for a penny in for a dirham or two is the norm here...Drat.

I notice that Fred of Fred Real Estate Developements is opening his new office next door to where I am typing and best of luck to him have heard various reports about the good service and property he is showing, so good on you Fred now give us a job, you need a Fassi lookalike with a broad Norwich accent dont you now.

Failing that of course the two girls I helped to buy a property or two in the Big C have been in contact and I would love to oversee their renovations it would be a doddle compared to this dirham munching monster, after saying that its all been a great life experience although one of the most stressful things i have ever done in my life. I have been in a Force 9 Hurricane for 5 days on a yacht in the Atlantic in the mid eighties in a previous incarnation as a private chef and that was life or death situation everyday, but there have been times when i would have said that was more preferable. Just letting prospective buyers out there to Be Prepared, you will need all your wits and possibly another bag of wits for spares, ohh what a wit I think I will retire now its been a long day.

From Door to Door

Woke up with no workers around,luxury, as it was a Friday; but just as I was about to exit along came a new carpenter who I had commissioned to make a new cedar door. Just the one door you understand to test the quality of his work and if good he can make another and then...another as i need five or six in total. I have had doors on the mind for a week now, as you do; getting fixated on silly things just because you have to really.

The day started to take shape when after the successful door hanging I met up with a couple of bright young street sellers who earlier on in the week had sold me two gorgeous old cedar chests for next to nothing. After a quick linseeding they both looked stunning in the house. They whisked me into Ziat to check out an old mate whose granfather had died so was selling his collection of antiques. It was like walking into an Aladdins cave of ancient artifacts, old carved banquettes, Chinese antiquities his gramps had brought over from China and some ornate gild mirrors ...nice.

Several things took my fancy but need to sleep on it really before I get carried away as I usually do but I will definitely get the cedar carved banquette bases which could double up as a bed base. The young guys were very switched on as as they definitely knew their cedar so took them to the Mernissi House to view the salon doors which are intricatly carved and in dire need of a good Da Capo as they show up the main salon now everything is looking good. They pronounced they could do all four doors in 3 days at whatever I wanted to pay them so thats a goer then and then will also try and source old doors for 500 dh which is half the rate of getting new doors done. so that could be the end of my door fixation so now I shall have to find something else to worry about....shouldnt take long...what about that Berber Basement!

Norwich Nomads

Nice to welcome Mystere Micheal back in town now for the eighth time along with another Norwich face in Napoli Phil, who was visiting Morocco for the first time. Phil needed a break from the exertions of his computer software and programming job setting up a wicked site text2ad, not sure of the address exactly but if it takes off he could be rolling in it so to speak, so good luck to him.

Within hours of arrival Phil had been seduced by the idea of a little retreat in Chefchaouen as it fitted all criteria for relaxing, mountain climbing and good prices and he hasnt even been there yet!! I think I painted a good general picture and when he actually saw some photos it was the icing on the cake.

Within the three days they were here camping in the menzeh bedroom, well not literally camping but you get the picture, we managed to fit in an early morning souk visit, check daily on the progress at Dar Mystere, have drinks with the luminous Sandy, met the delightful Kleo for dinner in R,Cif, shopping trips to Metro and a birthday lunch for Phil at Majestic.

During this time the Mernissi house work slowly creeps along as the fine details take up a lot of time, for instance the zellige repair. Also having rushed to get the rest of the bathroom fittings last week the plumber has been sick for 3 days and tadelakt team announce they will be back in a week to do the kitchen and repair any knocks and dings throughout the house. Meanwhile the electricians have put up 15 gypsy style lamps as Michael says on the terrace so now we can play with the dimmers to our hearts content. Also light bulbs in the main salon behind the intricate plasterwork backed by Iraqui glass near the ceiling transform the salon area. The dimmed lighting emanating through the glass and the plasterwork is like a work of art and I can,t say I have seen its like in the Medina before.

Had several old and new friends around for a salon christening and Pizza Mike brought round some freshly baked pizza from his pastry chef as we discussed Medina lifestyles,gossip, renovations and Purple Circle updates.

A member of the PC earlier in the day was debating the issue of ^^To Maison dHote or not to Maison dHote that is the question, whether it was nobler in the mind to suffer the slings and arrows of outrageous baksheesh, or take arms against a sea of roxa permissions^^ blah blah blah, you get the picture. It is difficult to pick your way through the minefield of legislation to find the formula that works best for your particular property but inshallah things could be becoming clearer over the next few months.

Awaiting the visits of two more Norwich Nomads in the coming weeks with Pippa flying in from Dublin looking for a small Dar on a tiny budget and Simon an old friend from way back just needing a break from the rigours of English day to day living,poor lamb. Will he be seduced by the Medina, will he buy a house, will he like the Mernissi renovation, will he recognise me with a grey Berber beard well we will see wont we.

The Big Clean

A bit of a hold up this week waiting for the marble man for 3 days as he has to finish his work before zellige man can finish his work before tadelakt man can finish his work before clean up crew can finish their work and so it goes! Soon it will come to an end and I will miss the constant wallet opening......NOT. It will be time to start earning and not burning up the spondulicks.

The da capo girls have finished the front door WOW looks good enough to eat and now a big clean up starts inside on salon zellige mainly, whilst the salon kitchen gradually takes shape.
The marble counter is laid in kitchen and now zellige man can finish around the counter and we will be ready for the return of Abdelkaddir to tadelakt the last room before going on a snagging detail around the house to finish off the chips and bangs and knocks that always occur.

Had a young couple around yesterday who had just bought in the medina and found myself regurgitating my trials and tribulation of renovation to them but hopefully didnt put them off the whole experience. My last question for them was are you mad cos if you are it will definitely help along the way especially integrating with the ex pat nutters and that includes me and Pizza Mike and Antonio the Italian, definitely larger than life characters.

Back on the block

A week back in England brought me up to date with the Strictly Come Dancing on Ice finalists and the latest plot twists of Eastenders whilst staying with my mother. The trip back was to unfortunately to bury my dear old gran but was able also to catch up with the family and pop in to see Michael of Dar Mystere fame so we could compare notes on our renovations.

Back to the Medina to lots of happy workers, happy to see me as I was carrying their wages but also happy with the progress. The Da Capo ladies are on the last leg of their wood stripping campaign and its the big one, the massive front door. Doing a beautiful job and should be finished in a few days with their next job already lined up. The carpenter has been tweaking, sanding, planing all the doors and windows so that they effortlessly glide open and shut; a painstaking job. Also have another two bathrooms almost ready with all fittings in place and the main salon kitchen is tiled and ready for a marble counter to be laid before tadelakt man comes in to finish.

Looking forward to the day when the wallet is not always open as it is a constant stream of notes flying out at present as the finishing details can get quite costly and we still have to furnish the old place yet aaaaargh!!

Over next few weeks several friends coming over to check on progress and also possibly to invest in Fes or Chaouen with varying budgets. There are still some small houses in the under 20000 euros bracket in Fes and 40000 in Chaouen would get you a funky medina house with great views.

Tadelakt or is it Cadillact

Had some new visitors around with Josephine and we discussed the tadelakt or the fact that it was a version of tadelakt to which the quip was well why not call it Cadillact.. top of the line, so thats what it will be from now on in.

Came back from my weeks sojourn to find so much done in the house it was amazing, the front door was dacapoed or stripped to reveal honey coloured cedar and all bathrooms are now Cadillact. The shower room for the intermediary bedroom now looks exquisite with some artistic licence taken in the zellige as you can see in the photo which works well and the luscious lemon tadelakt walls. The other bathroom is a vibrant aquamarine blue equally cool. Also majority off all doors and window frames are now stripped and locks and handles are being fitted. Was able to have a steaming hot bath on my first night back soI was a very happy bunny indeed

We just have to finish the main salon kitchen and a storeroom so choosing marble counter from the factory was priority today and getting zellige ordered for the floors. When this work is done Abdelkaddir will come in to finish his penultimate tadelakt job with another lemon finish in the kitchen. This kitchen area has been an eyesore for so long it will be good to see it done at last. After this it will be snagging work for him walking round the house to see the little repair jobs and then he will be paid up and LISTEN UP FOLKS he is looking for the next job so my advice is to nab him. This is what i did when he had finished Sandys job and though not cheap you do get quality which is important over price any day.

I have to take off again on Thurs to go to my old Grans funeral in England so time to draw up another worklist although Moannis knows the house as well as I do these days so he can pre emt what I want done, and with Ben as my eyes and ears the project is in good hands.

Blue View and Rif too

Im just going to let the pictures speak for themselves really, the top one is the liveliest butchers shop Ive ever seen as they chase your order around the counter. The Rif in all its glory, absolutely stunning and theres Archi reclining in the fjord near Akrou contemplating carpet sales no doubt. The electric blue Aladdin restaurant in town is one of my faves a minaret every metre is the theme and theres a couple of shots of the house I am putting deposit on tonight only so that no one can grab it whilst I scour for shekels and await a reply from the Aussies as to their involvement.

Lots of interesting property here folks and I have done all the groundwork sourced simsaars and local contacts as well as checking out workmen, best deals on wood for furniture and where the locals get their carpets. I picked up a hundred year old carpet nicely worn, huge it was and paid the equivalent of 45 pounds, I know in Fes it could be up to 10 times more i will check with the boys when I get back tomorrow.

I am in love with the Big C it is the most laidback, tranquil but still vibrant place with real life, real people and unreal views, the views, the views are out of this world as are some of the Kif smokers in another way.