So this trip following on from the tour with Denise couldnt be more different. Abdel was on a budget being on low wages by our standards so instead of the luxury riads we were now travelling Moroccan style.
Great fun as we arrived in Essauoria after maniacal drive from Marrakech its 180k of straight road hence crazy overtaking and huge risk taking. We booked a room easy enough very basic for 100 dh a night about 6 pounds and then checked out medina madhouse as it was Gnaoa festival it was rammed. Not as friendly or large as Fes and parts of medina filthy and crumbling but good cafe society around Orson Welles place. Named as such cos he filmed his Othello here and around Safi.
Abdel took control as only he could for dinner we went to fish market to buy two huge fish for 15 dh about 1 pound then down to smoke filled alley where you paid another 15 dh to have your fish seasoned and cooked plus salad ; bread and tea a real bargain. Watched great Gnaoa band amidst huge crowd with local kids going mad to the rave ish breakdowns. Lots of Europeans around who pack the beaches which are not as good as Moulay Bousselham.
Long drive from here to Rabat next about 400k but highlights were driving past the argan oil co ops run by local woman so we watched as they picked the kernels from the shell to then crush them to extract the oil. Driving north 25k from Essaouria passed incredible fertile area with olive and argan trees together plus fields of luscious grapes which local vendors were selling from the roadside; in fact you could live on the produce bought from the roadside at various times and different areas we have seen melons, honey, pumpkin, oil, flocks of black turkeys, apples, peaches so theres a meal right there!
North from Safi an incredible crescent bay looking out to the Atlantic of course with prime beachfront land but no buildings, why I asked, must check it out again if you want a get away from it all location but still only 140k from Marrekech and 10k from Safi.
Called Ben back at the house and the builders on turbo mode from the sounds of it stripping the terrace and reconstructing the suite overlooking the main salon putting in raised ceiling, new doorways, creating glassbrick floor for outside patio area adjoining the suite all sounds good.
Got stopped by police for the first time on way to Rabat looking at me quizzically as they saw from my papers i was English and they all burst into hysterics at my name as they pronounced it Macclee tush not McIntosh which means eat nothing, they were still laughing as we drove away, oh well better than a spot fine any day!
A day in Rabat with Abdel whisked me round this clean modern city with great ramparts, bustling, what else, medina and good beaches. Its the capital and looks it very westernised and civilised. Booked a room for 70 dh which was 2 beds and that was it not a scrap of furniture but for the equivalent of 5 pounds whos gonna complain.
Finally back to Fes and straight to house and the building is really taking shape considering its only 3 weeks since they started must upload some photos soon of everything thats going on over here its wild, wacky and wonderful.
Tuesday, August 22, 2006
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