Deep Joy or Budget Blues?

With unseasonal sunny weather throughout the last few weeks we could be forgiven in thinking spring is in the air. After spending on gas heaters and blankets in December in anticipation of the big chill its nice to be able to bask on the terrace to top up my paleface. My feeling is we should make the most of it as probably in February we will be suitably drenched by the winter rains.

In town for a flying visit at the moment is good friend Doug the photographer and journalist who is here on assignment for a well known magazine and journal. I cant really go into detail about the story as it would let the proverbial cat out of the bag and spoil the element of surprise. Suffice to say its a very interesting and positive take on tourism in the general region. So thats frustrating as I would love to spill the beans, as those that know me know I hate to keep a secret for too long.

The general topic of conversation around my neck of the Medina is less about renovation updates now as most of the immediate circle are coming to the end of that aspect of the project, but generally what is happening with the flights from London. Several friends are having difficulty getting to Fes without a hop, skip and a jump around Europe. For the guest house owners also they are trying to think back on this time last year to compare notes on tourism and bookings. Undoubtably over the past year or so the budget airlines have had a dramatic effect on the influx of visitors to Fes. This has resulted in shoals of prospective riad renegades and dar desperados anxious to get their mitts and money into an historic medina house.

Now of course lest we forget there have been many foresighted individuals who as long ago as 10 years were realising the future potential here and investing. I can think of several nearby owners who have literally put their heart and soul as well as probably millions of dirhams into their personal idyllic retreat. My point is they did not need the requirement of a Wizzair Budget Bucket Seat to decide to relocate or return to Fes. It was a call, a duty, a love or blind faith call it what you will, they just did it. I actually do not know in what category I would put myself but I know I seemed to have no choice in the matter, the house chose me and it was I feel a duty of sorts to renovate it to the required standard.

For some people it was a case of lets buy a few and sit on them and see how the market progresses, and thats all well and good and they are probably a lot shrewder and canny businessmen than I. For some bravehearts though it has been or still is a labour of love that can at various points shred your nerves, make you weep in frustration and continuously check the bank balance to see if all the noughts are in the right place. Ahhhh but when you have finished, Deep Joy and a true sense of achievement makes up for all those horrid hurdles, trust me.

And then what? Well for every individual here it is a different story whether you are Cafe Clock Mike or Classy Kleo, along the way your dream and your focus changes as Fes and the project changes shape. We all have to adapt and I for one have no idea where the rocky road leads. So if the flights for instance make it trickier to get here well we are only back in the spot we were a year ago when said investors were well into their projects. What we WILL see is the return of the discerning buyer who is captivated and charmed as we all were with Fes and is prepared to take up the challenge of buying and renovating on top of getting that pesky connecting flight.

The upsurge in European flight connections could ensure that other nationalities now take up this unique challenge ensuring a multicultural mash-up instead of one heavily weighted, or so it seemed at one point, towards the Budget Brits. We Shall See, Wont We.

Back and Forth

Hello blogmates, its all quiet on the Moroccan front after the Xmas rush which is to be expected. Have been away for a few days to the rather photogenic Spanish haven of Vejer de la Frontera and if i thought it was quiet here its tumbleweed central over there, with lots of the cafes and restaurants closed for winter and friends scrabbling for work.

What was very noticeable were the notices in estate agents windows announcing price reductions on lots of the properties as through the past few years the Brit influx married to favourable tabloid reports led to escalating demand for the rinky dink old town properties. Of course throughout Spain now this era of silly year on year building concrete Disneylands and asking monopoly money for a ruined shed (lets call it a Cortijo to make it sound grander) in an illegal suburb, has come to a grinding halt. There is of course here a comparison with Morocco, which although in many ways is a mirror of how Spain was a few decades ago, gorgeous, virgin countryside, unspoilt beaches and cheap property could fall victim to inflated prices bouyed by the international not the local market.

We have seen here in Fes over the last few years the rocketing prices for the medina houses which though still good value for money when compared to dealing with European property, specifically London, could be a case of too much too soon. For instance the dream of local Medina house owners is to sell their almost habitable wreck to a an enthusiastic Brit renovator and move into a modern flat in the Ville Nouvelle. However the knock on effect has pushed up prices of these flats so the local has to put up the price of their old house to make the move financially viable for the family involved.

Its a tricky situation and one I feel that will find a more sensible pricing structure as we enter 2008 after the goldrush effect of recent years. For a lot of buyers however it is not just an investment in financial terms but a lifestyle choice as they fall in love with the perceived easygoing stressfree nature of life here plus the bonus of owning a slice of history. What is important is they prepare themselves financially, emotionally and also allow adequate time to realise their dream and the commitment needed. When you hear six months for a renovation best practice would be to double it. In fact if you double everything you perceive its going to take as a rule of thumb then you wont go far wrong and have a built in cushion.

The mood in Spain is one of uncertainty and its a palpable feeling and coupled with the US woes spreading its tentacles eastward this could have effect on all markets. Here in Morocco with the amount of investment not just from individual investors but the big players such as Emaar and Fadesa I think as it stands its in a very healthy position as long as greed and inflated expectations dont get in the way.

Into the new.

All around the Medina there are huge sighs as the frenetic Xmas and New Year rush for beds eases off, to be replaced by slight consternation regarding the soon to be axed direct flights to Fes. How will this affect tourism, well time will tell, but in the meantime I guess its time for everyone to get their own house in order. By this I mean continuing those snags and running repairs that inevitably crop up in the old medina houses after heavy guest use and also after the last bout of heavy showers(its not all sun and fun folks) where do those pesky leaks come from.

Its also a time to get out and about to see what else is going on in the immediate environs, so a trip to see my good friend Lionel and famille seemed to be in order in the imperial Meknes.

His newly renovated place overlooking Bab Monsour is coming on a treat with the guest dar now having a fully tiled courtyard and budding garden since my last visit, well done mate! We spent my couple of days there walking about 100 miles so it seemed up, down, through the medina and the palace sights picking up stray simsaars who showed us an incredible variety of houses. As with Fes the prices are shooting up but Meknes has a lot to offer although unfortunately not the same variety of restaurants, but a budding nightlife so I am told and a calmer less frenetic pace than good old Fes.

Lionel was snapping away at the various houses and you can see the results on his new blogspot mekneshouses which has a link under my notable bloggers section. Several maison dhotes are springing up to cater for the individual trekkers as opposed to the coach parties of before of slightly older clientele shall we say. Bab Monsour itself is being renovated and all around this area there is massive repaving and restructuring ongoing due to the Kings insistence I believe, after all it is an Imperial city and does not want to lag behind its illustrious neighbour Fes, 50k away.

I saw a couple of houses that piqued my interest in the 40,000 euro bracket although out on a limb regarding access to the main tourist trail but in areas due for regeneration and having a realness not always apparent as such in the tourist areas. Although not near to an airport apart from Fes, Meknes is in the loop of the picturesque micro climate grape growing region that encompasses the ever wonderful Volubilis and my fave town Moulay Idriss.

International Relations

At the last count around the Xmas dinner table there were in no particular order these nations represented.....Romania, Cuba, Nigeria, England, Australian, France, America and Antigua not forgetting our host nation Morocco.

Pictured on our right is the Antiguan representative Teju Alekja swaddled in her comfort blanket as the December nights are closing in on us. She was visiting me and Morocco with her daughter Safi over the festive season, helping to add a little glitter and tinsel to the house. After a night in the basement on the first night they quickly commandeered the space and made it a cosy den. Teju has bought a piece of land in Falmouth, Antigua and is going back to oversee the building of her long awaited villa. Brave girl. Almost braver than me opting to renovate this lovely house when practically I can't even put a shelf up, but as the saying might go when in doubt delegate to a man who can, or several in fact!!

So Xmas Dins then, turkey and tagine, with mincemeat pastilla, xmas pud (hurray) and truffles and port and in the afternoon several kiddies opening prezzies under the makeshift rose bush xmas tree. A long way from home for a lot of people but hopefully we injected proceedings with a good dose of spirit to make people less fretful of absent friends and family.

Hope yew awl had a good one now bring on 2008 probably in a Cafe Clock stylee this end with Mike and the gang.

Chrimbo and all that Jazz

Festive Greetings to both our readers from the funky Fes Medina.

Well its not all fun and sunshine here albeit I would hazard a guess that its warmer than old Blighty right now. All around the Medina propane sales are blossoming as we wheel out our trusty heaters for a few months at least and I for one permanently don my chunky Chefchaoen knitwear, very fetching. Along with my woolly hat I have been told I resemble a Moroccan nut seller, which has done wonders for my credibility, I dont think.

Just recovering from my personal Eid experience where I was confronted in the basement a few days ago with a face to face encounter with a 40 kilo bundle of lambchops called Dolly. Ben had made her very comfortable with a bed of straw, some canapes and a glass of chilled reisling and she reclined thinking I am sure all her Xmas'ssss had come at once. The fact that she wouldnt even see this one out had not entered her tiny brain, so I thought, you can wipe that sheepish smirk offyerface as soon as you like. The next day a Moroccan Sweeny Todd had dispatched Dolly to that great green pasture in the sky soon after the call to prayer.

The Medina was smelling of sweetsmoke charcoal, charred horns and heads and everyone slinging their personally branded sheepskin still bloodied and muddied onto piles on each street corner to be collected for a tannery rejuvination. It was incredibly organised and the threatened rivers of blood scenario I had envisaged did not occur as people seemed meticulous in keeping their personal doorstep clean. Ben then very swiftly prepared Dolly for a tagine party that night in two shakes of a lambs tail ho ho and again HO!

So know its getting near the time for our Occidental celebration HA! I remember last year on Boxing Day I was shopping for 5 toilets, 2 baths, 4 sets of taps and 5 GOOOOLD RINGS , 4 Blah de blahs, 3 sitting ducks, 2 French Tarts and a Partridge in a Pear tree. Now getting that lot back into the Medina in a fleet of Carrosas (trolleys for the uninitiated) caused a few stares and an unbelievable amount of scurrilous gossip so I wont be doing that again.

This year I have some West Indian friends coming over from Antigua although originally from Nigeria joined on 26th by some other Nigerian ladies so I will be having a traditional Nigerian Xmas whereby we all set off at the crack of dawn and lasso the nearest water buffalo, and spit roast it with cashew nuts, banana, plantain and Yorkshire pudding. This is traditionally followed by plum duff and Birds Eyes Custard which read literally seems an abomination, birds eyes and custard yuck, sounds like a Bushtucker Challenge. Then we will sit around the gas fire tell tall tales and chant long forgotten negro spirituals till way past 7pm.

More fun than shopping for toilets.....I hope!

On the Road again

Quick photo of the Mernissi house for my Xmas visitors to peruse, its unique folks its got a roof (keeps the warmth in).


When you have lived in Fes for a while there is always the temptation, once in a while, to go exploring to search out what lies beyond the Medina walls. It is difficult for some of the people here to get further than Marjane the hypermarket by taxi as they do not have access to a car. Therefore they can find it can get slightly claustrophobic and the need for a breath of fresh air and an adventure is necessary. Thats where I come in and now who needed that kind of break I thought to myself ummmm.

I suggested to Josephine from Dar el Hana that we undertake a trip to Al Hoceima on the Med coast, why, because I had never been there and I wanted to see what all the fuss was about with the massive development of this area. The Kings Plan is heavily concentrated on resorts springing up in this neck of the woods and locals here have long championed the beauty of the coast, so thats a good enough reason to go visit i thought to myself.

Josephine didnt take much persuading and soon with her bag of nuts, biccies and crisps to hand we headed off into the unknown. You might want to have a map to hand to follow the progress as it gets quite convuluted. First of all we headed east out of Fes on the Taza road and soon branched off onto the Al Hociema route to the Rif mountains. Now it said 250k but from experience never try and guage how long a trip will take in Morocco as roads can twist and turn or else you dawdle (great word) to take in the scenery. So for the first part we cruised through the sparse, sand coloured landscape feeling the Fes stress melt away.

The running soundtrack to the whole trip was Jo's squeaky seatbelt which emitted a groan everytime she moved to check out the vista, which was frequently, which had us both in stitches although less so by the end of the trip. Through winding, snaky single lane roads we passed through Taonate which was festooned by sheep, people and Merc vans all jostling for the few inches of space left in the road, nightmare and then the dubious delights of Ketama which is Kif central where there looked to be a deal being done on each corner. Best to hurry on before sundown as the road now became infuriatingly bendy and not to mention downright dangerous with the oncoming traffic all thinking they were a cross between Michael Schumacher and a deranged pyschopath on angel dust.

Finally Al Hoceima came into view, "the sea, the sea" we both cried, while the seatbelt squeaked in agreement. This is a modern, clean resort area with serious development ongoing but on a charm factor scale it figures low, especially off season and the serious lack of a decent restaurant. We spent the night however with an agreement to continue eastward to Nador and beyond. Now this is where things become exciting as heading out to what we thought was the main inland route to Nador we ended up on the brand new coastal road that hugged the shoreline for some 70k. We saw some of the most gorgeous fertile agricultural land almost bordering the sea and to our right almost moonscape rock formations or gentle pastoral delights. Eco tourism thoughts filled our heads as this setting must surely be one of the most unspoilt stretches of coastline I have seen for many a year. This road is NOT on a map yet so the rest of infrastructure is barely in place, few shops or houses to speak of and only one adventurous entrepreneur building a hotel. In a word STUNNING!!

Therefore on hitting Nador after a turn inland we were severely disappointed. This is earmarked as the business centre of the region and though it borders a lovely lagoon and a spacious promenade the town itself again factors low on the charm-o-meter, and we turned around and skedaddled (great word meaning to escape quickly I believe). So now it became obvious we were going to head for the famed Saidia resort, the flagship of the Plan D'Azur, and soon in the distance we could see the huge pastel Disneyland. Stretching out over a region the size of the Fes Medina ie. massive folks, this spanking new mix of apartments, hotels, townhouses,pools and gardens amazes with its breadth of vision but also with the identikit nature of the buildings. It is going to be a phenomenal enterprise heavily promoted throughout the international property market but as a purist from the cultural heart of Fes it was not to my liking, shall we say! This area is going upmarket quicker than a rat up a drainpipe and will obviously seriously compete with the Spanish market on the Costas in a few years when complete.

Old Saidia a somewhat sleepy but fashionable one street town just along the coast is rushing to catch up, replacing whole roads and for the speculator a plot of land here would be a very good punt I should say, when the major apartment builders turn their starry eyes in this direction, wont be long. So slightly shocked and stunned we headed to Oujda with no expectations whatsoever, how wrong could we be!!

The brand new motorway, superbly lit, passed by the immaculate airport soon to be VERY International and then Oujda itself, quel surpris. Here was a stylish, wide boulevarded town, pavements planted with jacaranda trees, what seemed like everything under major refit or renovation in a VERY tasteful way. Beautiful colonial buildings sat side by side with modern structures and it worked, the charm-o-meter shot up the scale. This is a town with a very serious future as the hub to the Med coast operations and for the new batch of first time visitors to Morocco they will be perhaps even more impressed than myself. We booked into Hotel al Hanna (it was the name that did it said Jo) for the grand total of 60dh a night (avoid the shared bathrooms) and had a fitful sleep of almost 12 hours after a mentally exhausting day.

The next day was 350k trip back to Fes and though we searched high and low either side of the road for the new proposed motorway between the two towns it was not apparent that anything more than the little single lane road we were on was going to be the realdeal. Am I missing something here because this should be a two line highway so you could roar to the coast at 100k an hour not take the snakes and ladders route to the Taza road from Fes where you are always stuck behind an overladen lorry. Oh well cant get everything right can we?

The Joy of Decks

Somehow I got invited to DJ at a 500dh a head Golf Tournament dinner soiree at the Majestic Restaurant, through a local contact. On being told it was the high end society crowd with average age 40-60 I began to have kittens as we say in England when slightly nervous. This is only because my curious blend of house, Latin, afro Latin, Spanish sundown and vague chart hits confuses even me at the best of times.

So it was with some trepidation that I set up my kit the night before with a local PA hire firm who seemed to surround me with several microphones, I kindly informed him I wouldnt be singing a medley of current Gnoua or Sufi chants, so they werent necessary to which he smiled strangely.

Arriving at the gig I was preceeded into the venue by a group of desert attired Berbers who had come up from the Sahara, and they set up their drums and sinister, stringy instruments in front of the decks, hence the need for the microphones I guess. I had been told I was on from 9-2 with no real idea of how I was to entertain a 100 seated, buffet stuffing, Moroccan golf loving afficianados but jazz seemed to be the obvious place to start. Very inoffensive opening I thought so introduced a bit of Latino to which the Berbers ears pricked up and they started playing along, one even sourcing a Flamenco guitar and strumming along, result(1) I thought.

From here on in it got slightly strange as during the buffet, which was a fantastic Majestic spread by the way, The Berber Desert Crew bongo-ed and strummed, followed by me playing between two and three records before there was a stop in the proceedings. One stop was for a huge, swarthy comedian who went on and on with varying degrees of success followed by the presentation of the golf prizes. At each stage I was ready to launch into my multi-purpose set to no avail as on went the band again to step up their riddims so that the once coutured and implacable guests were now a frenzied, head tossing, bongo bashing melee in front of me.

Great, I thought, they are warmed up nicely now for a samba, Brazilian mash-up DJ finale only for the band to finish at 1pm and everyone went for their coats. I had time to slip in a quick couple of big beat numbers which got a few movers shaking as well as the bar crew who were definitely up for a party, before the first of the many BMW convertibles scooted away from the car park.

So there were no litter of kitties as my grand total of playing time was probably 43 minutes plus an invite to stay in the desert from my new Saharian brothers, result (2) I thought again!

The Dali Triangle or Windy Musings

Had to squeeze in these two shots sent by Uncle Simon of Scotland as they are classic mini Berbers he met on his travels and as he said from the look in their eyes they "just know dont they", couldnt agree more! And now for something completely different as Monty P once said.

Thanks Ryanair, one Dirham each way to Girona ensured the little break I was taking started off cheaply. Had no idea of itinerary (just how I like it) so on arrival got the hire car and roared around Girona with no concept or plan (just how I like it) and then discovered no room at the inn wherever I checked (not quite how I like it). It was getting late at this stage so head for the hills I thought, although what hills and in what direction didnt seem to matter.

Saw a sign for Figueres 35k so thought that will do and not long later arrived eventually into the Ramblas or main square, looking for parking I turned left and almost jumped out of my seat as I was confronted by the most bizarre sight. For those who have been here you will know it is the Dali Museum, which the great man designed and eventually was buried within, but I was totally unprepared for the sight. More like a cake made by Delia Smith after a pint of Absinthe, it consisted of bright red walls studded with plastercast brioche or local bread, one level up nude gold mannequins struck absurd poses whilst the roof had row after row of giant eggs.

Soon it became all clear this was the birthplace of the fabled nutter/genius and I was in the heart of the Dali Triangle so called because his main house was also around here at Port LLigat and a castle bought for the missus/muse Gala was down the road at Pubol. My holiday was now taking on some kind of purpose, to get an insight into this fabulously talented individual.

My first observation which would not be too obvious to many Dali acolytes is that his talent although influenced by the incredible Emporda landscape was definitely defined by.....the wind! This is no ordinary wind or Levante as we knew it on the Costa de Luz where I used to live on the Atlantic west coast of Spain. There it literally turned people mad/bonkers/doolally regularly especially after a few weeks of constant howling, consequently Tarifa on tip of S. Spain has a somewhat dubious reputation for very creative suicides. In the Emporda region of Catalunya though it was more intense which would have had a definite effect on the light, cloud formation, rock shapes and bent and denuded trees not to mention the inside of Salvadors brain as the wind whistled Dixie at full blast.

Indeed in the time he was growing up here people leaving the bars in the Ramblas after a few sherberts were given two bricks, one for each pocket to weight them down from the wind as they stumbled home at a 45 degree angle, I kid you not!!

Anyway this town had touches of the great man everywhere you looked sometimes inadvertantly for instance the tame hiccuping pigeon walking in circles outside the museum, just coincidence I know but also the strangely lifelike trees around town with their knobbly boney branches like skeletal fingers grasping at the sky have figured in lots of his works. And dont get me started on the Town Hall clock which overlooked the Emporium Cafe, still there, where he whiled away days writing a draft for Le Chien Andalou, a Surrealist classic movie. He must have felt time slipping, dripping, tripping and ticking/tocking away as he scribbled away obtusely especially if he was dabbling in the Absinthe that seems to feature behind the bars here. Now that and the wind would explain everything methinks.

Needless to say the museum is everything you would expect and somewhat more, I would urge anyone to visit to see the mix of kitsch, surrealism, high art, junk all dressed up, messed up and in the end serving its main purpose which is to entertain and enthrall in equal measure. Many surprises around every corner including his exquistely designed jewellery which showed another hitherto unrecognised side to his talent especially one piece that had a beating heart ruby centrepiece, yes moving jewellery folks now theres a notion. How about a necklace that waves at passers by Salvador or rotating earrings, the list is endless or maybe not hey, maybe its the wind effect and I've only been here a day!!

Well Fed

Nothing better than a good stroke before bedtime after a hearty Camelburger. Heres the newest additions to the Medinas cultural mix with yachties Vince and Vanessa aiming to join our ranks, whilst Lady Karina is obviously missing her cat.

We're upstairs at the Clock Cafe and from the smiles I would say we were adequately refreshed, fed and watered, wouldnt you?

Nearly there!

Some nice shots from Uncle Simon Grosset, a long lost family member from the wilds of Scotland (also available for weddings..true).

The apartment now looking slightly sleeker and can seat 10, sleep 4 if necessary and out of shot the Sushi counter all ready for a Kiotori takeaway/delivery service, unbelievable that this is now available though have yet to test whether it arrives by mule or moped!

The Basement looking cool and feeling cool also and out of shot also now have a working fountain to put the plastic ducks (thank you Simon Butcher of Norwich). Just need to get Lady Karina to suggest fabric for tenting the ceiling to cosy up the old place. Have fitted a Moroccan toilet (every home should have one) in basement also with a new shower so that ones ablutions can be performed all -in-one as it were, I leave it to your fertile imaginations on that one.

So the next project I think now is the top terrace although listening to the heavy drizzle outside I dont think it will be anyones favourite spot for a while.

The soft opening at Cafe Clock last night was great success and finally got to eat one of their famous Camelburgers, rich and delicious and no sand in sight. Wish Mike all the best and also his crackshot team who rose to the occasion spendidly. looking forward to the real opening very soon.

The Perfect Weekend? (part 2)

Some belated shots from Simon the inhouse photographer, raconteur and Gordons gin connoiseur of the Indian Jazz Parpers and Dancers from their performance at the Jazz in Riads Spectacular. In the picture below notice that the nails are not that sharp (damn cheats) whereas the broken glass he later danced on looked pretty much like the real thing hence the pained expression on his painted face (that is a picture on its own).

Sunday was Famous Road Trip Day as Kath, Lady Karina of Ghengis fame, Andy the House Hunter and Chauffeur Louis took to the high road, or more specifically the route to Meknes.

First stop was at Bab Mansour in Meknes to visit New Pal Lionel and his family where a quick tour of his labyrinth house was much appreciated by all with great arches and exposed brickwork throughout the house. He took us on a quick tour of the Medina stopping at a house of a Moroccan friend of his halfway through a massive renovation. This house would have to be one the classiest I have been in containing 17 bedrooms, pool on the terrace, 360 degree views and the crowning glory the ex Pashas suite which was a museum piece that took your breath away. I cant tell you what was paid for the house but in six months the value has quadrupled due in no small part to the exquisite renovation work.

With a proposed opening date of New Years Eve I somehow found I was to be the Dj at the party which now means I could be treble booked as Riad Fes and Cafe Clock are also offering la meme chose, nice to be popular. I sense I need to get back to Spain to pick up my records tout suite!

Leaving Lionel it was time to visit my fave town Moulay Idriss and I guess its time to let the cat out of the bag now and explain my vested interest in the town. On one of my many visits Faissal, our man in Moulay, took us to the top of the Medina to an enclave of houses bordering a community garden. We spotted a house with a view onto the Mosque, the holiest of places in the whole of Morocco, also the whole of the Medina and off to the side the Volubilis site. The owner happened to be there so after quick visit to the top terrace found a small deposit being laid down for a future purchase, what am I like!! So if you are reading this Tony, here we go again. I now have a year to find the grand total of 13,000 euros!!

Took the troops up to the house and we all sat on the stoop admiring the view quietly in contemplative mode as it was so gorgeous, drinking mint tea with Mohammed the house owner as the local kids scampered around us. Could have stayed here for hours to watch the sun go down in the valley beyond, bathing Moulay in a suffused lemony light but no time to waste as Volubilis beckoned.

As ever the old Roman town fascinated and chilled even the most knowledgeable of travellers with its own special magic, with its wholly intact mosaics still open to the elements, a reminder of the Romans own zellige artisans. Karina was fascinated by the fertility rooms stone phallus which we took her to with eyes shut, so that she had to guess by shape and touch what it represented. It seemed to take her an inordinately looong time to guess its shape and purpose, so prising her fingers from the ancient Dickus Romanus we wended our way homeward as the sun set violetly over the lush grape growing plains.

Arriving back in Fes I suggested a wasabi mouthburn at at the one and only Kiotori restauarant and even though we were 90 mins early for opening time Moroud (spelt wrong i am sure) the owner ever graciously led us to a side room decorated with cool Balinese screens. No need to order as a superbly fresh platter of delectable fish delights arrived to tantalise those tastebuds making us doubly satisfied as he waived the bill, as I have spent maybe more time than I should have in his establishment. However when food is this good it is easy to become a sushi addict.

Rushed back to Boujloud Square to catch the free jazz in the coolest of settings inside the freshly manicured rampart walls. To finish off the splendid day I hunched over the computer to blog madly before I forgot the details, while Simon and Kath sat in the main salon, her nursing a cup of Horlicks, him something slightly stronger, whilst listening to multiple episodes of the Archers on the internet Radio podcast!!

The Perfect Weekend? (part 1)

Well it certainly comes close to being one of those weekends where the weather, good friends, Fes and the ambience collude to produce a magical couple of days. With my very good friends Pippa and Kath in town it was always gonna be fun but throw into the mix new compadres Simon and Andy over from England and the Mernissi house was a hive of activity.

First up it was the Jazz in Riads week in the Medina and luckily enough the first two nights it was held in the Palais Mnebi all of 30 metres from my house. To say it was good would be like saying that Shergar could probably catch a trotting donkey, it was ASTOUNDING. I havent heard jazz like this since Soft Machine or Weather Report in their pomp in the 70s, it was in that kind of league. First up was Synop-sis from France with guitarist Eric Sempe and the incredible drummer Felix Sabbal Lecco amongst others who layered intricately textured rhythms together with practiced ease with warped Arabian vocals from a manic percussionist. It was little short of mind boggling in fact I cant remember the last time when my mind was as boggled but it could have been that strange mushroom omelette on Had Rin Beach at a full moon party in Thailand in 86, not that I remember too much about that particular night apart from two nice ladies called Bad and Oy, but thats another story.

Next band up and I mentioned that I would not like to have followed on from that but the Didier Lockwood Trio took up the baton and ran a blinder as we say. As a violinist Didier has played at a tender age with the likes of Dave Brubeck and here his frenzied and inspirational style was more Stephane Grapelli on acid plus he was flanked by young hotshot pianist Thomas Ehco who made Jamie Cullum seem more like Russ Conway (remember that gum showing piano tooth smile), as his fey, foppish appearance, plus he looked about twelve, belied an amazing fastfingerflashy style. I turned to Kath to say he was soo good that I wanted to chop off both my useless non piano playing arms, but I suppose practically once you have cut one off how do you attempt to cut off the other ummm i suppose I will shelve that idea and just watch with gritted teeth whilst turning green with envy.

The word prodigious did not do this man justice as the notes seemed to fly from his fingers as he tossed his forelock frantically to the manic pulse he was creating, note to self.... i havent got a forelock just a crinkly tuft, whilst Didier with the aid of multi effects pedals created multiple rhythms overlapping as he played atop and alongside his own created sounds......mindblowing. Came out shocked and stunned, the Jazz in Riads this year has taken a huge leap forward, could even rival the Sacred Music Festival in a few years time, well done Fes.

During the day I nearly forgot to mention throughout the Medina the Jaipur Maharajah Brass Band (I kid you not)were strolling New Orleans style but in full traditional Indian costume a-parping and a-honking of their bugles and a-bashing of their drums with their pearly whites a-flashing in the most manic fashion, most peculiar and enlivening. Gathered in Boujloud with a very appreciative audience craning from all the surrounding rooftops two loudly dressed dancers spun and whirled to the frenzied indian jazz. The male dancer looking a mite apprehensive as well he should then proceeded through his party tricks, consisting of balancing four tumblers on his head atop of which was a huge heavy urn of water whilst dancing on broken glass and then a bed of nails....I know....WHAT the ***!

So all in all a fine start to the weekend but that was just the start.

Fes Clipping

Just came across this article in New York Times from last year that someone sent me so have a read

http://travel2.nytimes.com/2006/10/01/travel/01journeys.html

A Day in the Life

Its a tough job but someones got to test these terraces out for comfort, thanks Fred and cheers Gary for the photo, now everyone can see what a lazy git I am. Well at my age (have a guess) I think I deserve it!!

A DMcKinlay shot from the Menzeh bedroom framing my Ali Baba magic lamp, unfortunately Genie-less.


An interesting day yesterday as I had a visitor from our neighbours Meknes in town, who after following my blog observations about the nouvelle cafes in town decided to come check it out for himself.

Lionel is a Frenchman teaching English at a school in Meknes and living with his girlfriend and young children in a large Medina house that he is in the process of renovating. Comparing notes on the different cities it quickly became apparent there is a huge gulf in the way things operate. Here in Fes we have more malems than we can shake a stick at, whereas in Meknes there is a dirth of skilled tradesmen apparently with only one zelliger of note for instance an old 70 year old Meknessi who the renovators share!!

According to Lionel there are approximately only 4-6 Europeans who have bought and restored a property (surely not) and when sourcing materials sometimes a trip to Fes is necessary to pick up plaster or zellige materials. He was suitably impressed with the bilde in the buildings here in Fes as this is not the case in Meknes whereas he says prices tend to be higher per sq m even so.

As he was only here for the day I tried to pack in as much as possible and will hopefully get a reciprocal time when I visit him. We took off for the ceramic factories to negotiate a good deal for his zellige with wildly fluctuating prices but after some astonishment at an initial quote of 800 dh a sq m we found a small independent at a more reasonable 300 dh, it pays to shop around as we all know.

From here we went to my new fave venue So Sweet cafe for savoury crepes, back to the Mernissi house to chill before a cool vodka and tonic with Sesarina at the effortlessly cool Riad Fes. To finish off Lionels day with a flourish off we went to the equally effortlessly cool Kiotori for sushi (3rd time in a week) where we joined Mr David Amster and Miss Karina Deubner of Ghengis fame for some wasabi mouthburn antics, yum.

Nice to meet a fellow European with a completely different take on living in Morocco and look forward to getting under the skin of Meknes and checking out the stylish Art Deco inflenced new town amongst other things.

Big Thumbs Up

Photos by the very wonderful Doug McKinlay of Lonely Planet fame amongst others, who will soon be showing an exhibition of some of his framed prints of Fes around the house in the near future

A special visitor knocked on the door this morning being one of the Mernissi sisters from whom I bought the house all of twenty (has it been that long) months ago. For those who are not aware the Mernissis are one of the famous Fassi families whose members include the renowned writer and strident feminist, lecturer Fatema Mernissi. I recently googled Mernissi and the first thirteen pages were all on Fatema!!

I digress, anyway one of the reasons for the sisters visit from her home in Spain was to see her old family home as she was born and brought up here so of course she was incredibly interested in what I had done to it. I like to think I have done a sympathetic restoration but now was the acid test. Her comment "Magnifique" was good enough for me, just wait till I have totally finished though. As with any renovation the finishing details can carry on for up to a year afterwards as you fine tune and then finer tune almost daily to reach the stage where you are 99 per cent happy. You will never be 100 per cent happy so dont even try, if you are then you must be Godlike!!

Ps Oh I nearly forgot the sushi review, took along Doug and Jane fresh from our morning horseriding experience where we had magnificent Arab/ Berber stallions, and can very cheerfully announce that Fes now has another fine dining experience. Authentic in all respects even down to the flat screen tvs which I am assured is a staple feature in Japan, and even the Moroccan waiting staff looked entirely fashionable in their dark Kimono garb.

And the food.....delicious from the miso soup, crunchy tempura through to the sushi and sashimi with stunning presentation from a menu the size of a Michener novel. Oh, that wasabi burn, I can still feel it so Domonic, if you are reading this from Tokyo, its time to come back mate now you wont feel homesick. Can also report that one of the trendy new cafes So Sweet is serving Eggs Benedict so your intrepid gorger took in brunch, leaving slightly disappointed (I usually am) at the thin dribble of semi Hollandaise on my fried (no no no) eggs. There should be at least a gallon of the foamy sabayon over two perfectly poached eggs, but at least there was ham and over a blueberry muffin which was a nice touch, very Maine (USA) like, which brought back some warm memories of when I lived there in the 90's in Camden and Boothbay Harbour.

So those scores again 10/10 for the Sushi experience, 5/10 for Eggs Benny, 9/10 for the Maine memory jogger.

The View from The Top

Photo courtesy of the very wonderful Doug Mckinlay who is back at the house with his other half Jane bringing with him some great prints of the house in his inimitable style to be framed to grace the bare walls. He also brought a complete sushi kit with mirin, wasabi and soy so I think the message is clear.....find tuna!!

Rumour has it and I can substantiate it that a new Japanese restaurant is soon to open opposite the Jnan Palace Hotel. When it does, could be days, be sure we will be one of its first clients with a full critical review, hopefully glowing. Sushi in Fes, I never thought I would see those three words in print.

Just when you thought you knew Fes you discover more as I went out and about with Khawla, an agent with Sirocco estates, who are building a great complex just out of Fes on the Taza road, incredible value, about 25000 pounds for apartment with garden and communal pool, interested?? then email me.

She then took me to two very trendy Soho or Marrekech type coffee bars in the Ville Nouvelle where all the bright young things chat over their cafe nous nous and choccie cake whilst cool house music plays in the background. We then went to her familys villa off the airport road and furthur on to a huge equestrian centre with stunning horses in stables, massive swimming pool, riad and terrace and two restaurants all under extensive renovation will be very swish, as we say in the west, when finished. Ive booked two horses for Hopalong Mckinlay and Jane this Friday although have wimped out myself as I can sense that any horse can spot a novice and will gallop off with me stopping somewhere outside Azrou and depositing me in a heap.

Hot Spot or Lukewarm

Soooooooo is this the next hotspot of Morocco or is that just wishful thinking. Out and about in the trusty Merc I am always on the lookout for bargain properties or areas ripe for genrification Moroccan style. This area in the photos, which is meant to keep you guessing of course, has several major plus points added to an equal number of minus points which adds up to a VERY LONG PUNT INVESTMENTWISE. However for bravehearts the rewards will be reaped its just when.

On a lighter night my compadre Tony Hall, superstar chef to the stars, specifically Roger Taylor from Queen, is jetting in next month for a flying visit. He is all fired up, full of exotic recipes and looking to guest chef at one or more establishments during his stay. Im not giving too much away when I say in all likelihood he will be chopping up a storm and burning the gas at Riad Laaroussa and hopefully Cafe Clock for starters (scuse the pun) but anyone else wanting to hire his unique talents just leave a message in the comment section below. Of course I am a chef myself but my passion nowadays is in bricks and mortar, but I am sure Tony will have me sauteeing or chiffonading something, with the odd mirepoix and julienne going on and ensuring that he is mise en place. All culinary terms are from our period at Norwich Catering college circa 1973, so as you can see we go waaaaaaaay back.

Back to the house and now the basement (photos soon folks on the blog) is nearly done it was time to turn my attention at long last to furnishing the apartment. Off to see Koko, whose brochure for his shop features many shots of this house which has many of his handmade pieces gracing each room. We went to his fabric man deep in the derb (I love that expression) and I bought 20 metres of quality cloth for the banquettes for the grand total of 55 euros. The previous day Ben and Zina acting as the impoverished newly weds went with me to an out of town souk where we negotiated a great deal on some hand made wooden bases to support the banquettes. When these are all made should only take 4 days then I will commision a low lying metal table and voila will have created a cool breakfasting spot in the apartment salon, which already has a cool cedar breakfast/sushi counter. Will post some shots when all is done.

Out and About

Doesnt time fly when youre having fun hey, lots of comings and goings over the last few weeks to keep an old man on his toes so therefore poor old Bloggy takes a backseat. First up was the Norwich invasion with Michael Mystere bringing along a very subdued and reflective Mr Connors from Norwich an international engineer of some repute.

Michael enthralled us with tales of cushions and fabrics, a far cry from the days when we used to run a underground dance outfit together but then that was a few years ago. Of course back then I had no idea I would be swapping a terrace house in Norwich for the more exotic Mernissi House leaving behind a mortgage and a smoking ban, whilst Michael became a happy breeder and the owner of a delightful soon to be fully cushioned Dar. We were joined by Paul and Debs from Norwich en route to the Puro DesertLounge dance party in Marrekech. We took in the sights including Riad Fes and Riad Laaroussa for lunch in between Fez buying for the natives back in Blighty.

Strange to look around from my top terrace to see alongside me four familiar faces from England whose more normal habitat would be the famous Fat Cat pub in Norwich, just voted best pub in Britain, again. Here our local as with most other bods in Fes is Thamis who never fails to deliver the culinary goods. Soon we will have the Cafe Clock as an option and we are all waiting and warming up our saliva glands for that experience and there are also rumours of a sushi bar opening in new town soon inshallah.

Have been out and about lately and one night came across a Rap night inside Bab Makina with thousands of young Moroccan hippity hoppity type dudes in outsize baggy pants and baseball caps, frugging and breakdancing to some very theatrical stage Djs. Up on the crenallated fort walls of Bab Makina which would not look out of place in a Lawrence of Arabia set, several storks in their makeshift nests looked down haughtily on the proceedings and if storks had eyebrows they would most surely have been raised at the antics of the crowd below. Having been the setting for some uplifting spiritual music in the Sacred Music Festival it seemed very incongruous to be hearing hard hitting angry polemic played to look a likey homeboys Moroccan stylee!!

Have been having a great time recently hitting the road normally with my esteemed colleague and entrepreneur Mike Clock as we need to keep ourselves acquainted with what is happening around and about Fes so we can reliably inform friends and future guests. Of course this has involved house hunting and we have both come up with interesting opportunities further afield as prices in Fes point skyward. How to pay for these projects is another matter but where theres a will theres a way.

Latest stroll through the Medina was again a revelation on returning to Fes as it was , how shall I put this and will you believe it, very SMART!! The Qaraouiyine Mosque doors were open on all sides and revealed the stylish renovation in all its glory and all around the shops, fronts, awnings and walls were how we say in England spruced up to the max. I popped out in Rcif very pleased and privileged to be a small part of the renaissance of this incredible place, and its still very much an ongoing process.

Up to his old tricks

Back behind the old Technics for a cocktail hour session at the very wonderful Riad Fes courtesy of the manageress Sesarina. It seemed to go down well with guests and visitors alike and it was nice to dust off my dormant vinyl to set the mood. Could end up a regular soiree we shall see.

Coming to the end of Ramadan here, could be tomorrow, so the medina is buzzing and frenetic in anticipation of normality including the return of alcohol sales and conjugal rights to name but two of the bonus points. Its been a rather pleasant month and not too many signs of the irritation and frustration caused by going without, although Mahoud the snail seller outside the house did have a spectacular meltdown when someone nicked his gas burner, we could here him 5 floors up for an hour. He ranted and raved to no avail of course as his bucket of snails sat forlornly on the pavement with no means to boil up the little blighters.

From this weekend after a 3 day holiday Fes goes into winter mode the shops and restuarants open earlier and close earlier and very soon it will be time to batten down the hatches for the winter rains and dig out those long trousers and woolly jumpers for the onset of the evening chill. All around the Medina people will be firing up their patio heaters, the Europeans that is, dusting off their gas heaters and stocking up on their winter logs. Yes folks it can get cold here though last year we only had a dusting of snow on one day to the great amusement of the kids.

C'est pret enfin

Yes it is ready finally, the final project on my list here of major importance and no I am not talking about crucial dental work to fill in the gaps or botox injections to smooth over those renovation tramlines on my forehead, I mean the Berber Basement dummy...

After four coats of paint the sad looking walls now look pristine, the accumulated light fittings that have sat on stairwells performing no particular lighting function are now in place like flaming torches. Ben attacked the freshly zelliged fountain and floor with acid water which is not a nouveau hippy drink but a highly caustic solution that is smoking as you pour it out and brings rapid tears to the users eyes. Suffice to say it immediately devours everything in its wake including half your fingers given half the chance.

We moved some plants and cacti in, played around with the lighting and tomorrow will throw down some tapis or carpets and cushions and voila ....the chillout Berber Basement, just need to hook up the Ipod dock to African lounge mode and then i will turn my attention to draping the ceiling to get the all important tent feel... cant wait.

Have had some great contact with old friends recently who are winging their way to Fes, Paul and Debs from Norwich are coming over soon for the PurodesertLounge concert in Marrekech with none other than Bryan Ferry the original Lounge Lizard performing alongside Claude Challe and Dimitri from Paris amongst others. Also Pippa jetting in from Dublin to check on her house purchase here as well as Doug the photographer coming over for a short break with his family. The best news though was a longstanding friend Teju coming over from Antigua.

We first met in the Caribbean over 20 years ago when we were doing modelling shoots in Antigua as being half caste we both looked very brotherly/sisterly for the shots. I was moonlighting from my yachtie chef job whilst I was also Djing in her then boyfriends bar and was lead tambourine in the Barracudas a rock n roll combo of musical yachties. Oh sweet memories of halcyon days of my lovely misspent and wild youth when the world was your oyster and it was all beach, beer, barbecues and bloody huge hangovers to boot.

We had the privilege on the way to one of our many beachside gigs with the Barracudas laden down with guitars, drums and assorted maraccas of picking up a tired and emotional Keith Richards, depositing him in the back of our cramped van and dropping him off at his wifes house. He said he only went out for a pint of milk 3 days previous but somehow got persuaded to stay up and out of it....funny that. I mentioned to the somewhat squashed and smelly rocker that this must remind him of travelling to early Stones gigs to which his succinct reply was errrr no. Conversations with the rich and famous hey dont you just love em.

Talking of the Caribbean mentioned to Teju that the troubled popstress Britney was on her way to rehab at Eric Claptons Clean up Clinic in Antigua just down the road from where Teju lives so she thought she might dash off a few pics for the dailies to get some dosh for her hols ummmmm. Well dont want to get tabloidy here so Im off to play with the basement lighting will post some pics later.